2 Bridges Day 13 - 14: Irkutsk - Ulan Bataar

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Day 14 - 15: Ulan Bataar

With the parting shot of vodka we shared with babushka our closing taste of Russia, we arrived at Ulan Bataar, the capital of Mongolia, bright and early ready for a rapid 24 hour dip into the vast spaces of this country which has always had a mysterious appeal to both of us.

Walking through the dusty, empty streets of UB at 7am seemed rather surreal as if the town was uninhabited as we navigated our way to the small and comfy (although pretty well hidden) Edelweiss Hostel. Our faces obviously looking gaunt following a week of pot noodles, the staff breakfasted us with camel's liver pate and got us out on the road to the Gorkhi Terelj National Park on the outskirts of the city.

Although close to the urban centre of Mongolia, and many days less travel than many of the country's most tempting parks, Terelj gave us a taste of the vast natural beauty of this sparsely populated wilderness of a nation. We got to ride Mongolian horses, visit a gear (traditional tents still used even in the cities) and one of the temples rebuilt following Stalin's rather brutal decimation (in the Roman sense) of the monk population and destruction of most of Mongolia's original 700+ Buddhist temples.

A good dinner and five hours sleep later time was up on Mongolia and we were back on a train (Chinese this time so no babushka) to Beijing.... more of this next time!

Day 11 - 14: Irkutsk - Ulan Bataar

Looking forward to a day off from the train, we walked through the rather ghostly 7am Irkutsk city centre, a city far more developed than the towns we had passed through over the past few days, and successfully purchased our bus tickets from the bus babushka for the 90 minute ride to Lake Baikal.

Holding (according to legend/Google) 25% of the world's fresh water, or enough to supply the entire world for 40 years, Lake Baikal is a monumental feature even on the scale of Siberia's massive landscape. The beauty of the lake is rather successfully tempered by the Soviet style development of Listvyanka, the lake's nearest town to Irkutsk, however only a short hike into the forested hills gives an idillic environment for camping (it is May, mid winter could be different).

Fed with local fish, easily our best Russian meal of the trip, we eagerly escaped the smelliest accommodation either of us have ever stayed in and made a run for Irkutsk where Katya and Tomas (thanks guys) took us in for a few hours before we headed back to the train station for our next train.....a 36 hour ride with all the daylight hours spent stuck on the Russian/Mongolian border... and the spectacular scenary passed in the dark!

Irkutsk - Ulan Bataar: 36 train hours / 1,100 km
TOTAL TO DATE: ~9,390 km

FUND RAISING TOTAL: GBP 2,600 including Gift Aid - All Donations go to support Doctors of the World

2 Bridges Day 11 - 12: Irkutsk & Lake Baikal

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2 Bridges Day 8 - 11: Transsiberian Moscow - Irkutsk

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Day 8 - 11: Transiberian Moscow - Irkutsk

So with a dramatic change in tempo we left ouк ( apologies I can't stop this Lake Baikal laptop autocorrecting, and photos will have to wait) mad rush of catching a number of buses oк trains per day for thу serenity of the 5,000 kilometres of Transiberian Route 2, covering 20% of our trip in 76 hours of the rather surreal semi-confinement conditions, with only a one or two chances per day to escape the occassionally air-conditioned Vagon 1 for a slightly anxious 1 - 30 minute (babushka dictated) stop at a variety of generally sparse and dispondent siberian railway towns.

Having passed more trees than anyone can imagine, been subjected to a wider variety of alcohol by Andrujey and Katya our compartment companions than in an average Friday night out in Stroud (doesn't that seem a long way away!?!?), more time to reflect on everything we've ever thought about than in a normal year of being back home, and passing notablу locations such as the crash site of Gary Power's U2, the obelisk marking the line between European and Asian Russia, rather severe looking army bases and many of the towns mentioned by the geographer Humboldt (as of Humboldt current) and a Mr RJ Jefferson who spent much of the end of the 19th century cycling from London to various Siberian locations..... One up on us!

Many more stories to tell, but they will have to wait. We're now at Lake Baikal near Irkutsk for 36 hours break froms trains before heading south to Ulan Bataar.

Moscow - Irkutsk: 5,200 km / 76 train hours
TOTAL TO DATE: ~8,500 km

FUND RAISING TOTAL: "GBP 2,200 including Gift Aid - Keep those donations coming!

Message from Will & Rob

To Novosibirsk.........

2 Bridges Day 5 - 7: Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

Day 5 - 7: Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

Somewhat complacent in our organisation up to this points, this leg was to prove a rude reminder of the need to allow for unforeseen delays and cater for the whims of state security within our whistle stop itinerary.

Bumped back onto our original route by the cancellation of our ferry to Helsinki, the bus ride to St Petersburg was to soon become a scene reminiscent of James Bond as we entered the gated, barbed wired and camera covered no man's land (well bridge) under the shadow of Narva's rather fitting castle. Our initial waiting for Russian immigration to summon us forward seemed part of the performance only enhanced by the sight of 50 Russian border guards sprinting to attention on the sound of the post's siren, although disappointingly it appeared to be in honour of a visiting official rather than a major land incursion by western spies.

That should have been it, and we would have been happy, but with passports stamped and only a sniffer dog between us and our waiting coach, Russian customs took issue with Will's first aid kit leading to a pretty tense 45 minute delay as we waited for the outcome of the seemingly serious deliberations about what should be done with us. Hard to convey the feeling of the situation, but tense, scary, sweaty palms all come into it. Will must have been scared - he didn't even seem to notice how they'd even arranged for the senior guard deciding his fate to be played by a tall and eye catching blonde who I'm sure is more accustomed to dealing with 007.

Waking up the next day Russia seemed a different a much more friendly country as we appreciated our first 8+ hour sleep for a week and our last shower for the next seven days. A whole 24 hours in the same place saw us visit the fascinating and in my opinion European historic centre of St Petersburg, including a walk around the Hermitage with possibly the most impressive set of Roman busts, European art and gold leaf interior design of any house I've ever been too, probably more than Versailles and the British Museum put together.

Fed, showered, rested and cultured up, we set off for our first Russian train of the journey, the sleeper to Moscow. A rather luxurious journey compared to Will's stories of Indian trains was added to by Andrey our cabin companion who seemed to think it a rather foolish yet interesting idea to try and reach Sydnet without using aeroplanes. In his words, "I think you have a problem"! Great company and thanks Andrey for the tips on how to make the most of Russia.

12 hours in Moscow was enough for Natalia (thanks a lot for the tour!) to show us round the main sites including most notably the Kremlin with its impressive 12th - 16th century churches, the atmospheric Red Square and Gum, surely one of the world's most exclusive shopping centres and the best indication I have seen of how life has performed a complete 180 for some of Russia's most elite since the times of the USSR.

Fascinating city, but time for our next train, a mere 5 days this one so time for us to provision up on vodka (and beer for a mixer) and make ready for the journey.

Thanks for all the Doctor of the World donations that keep coming in - all really appreciated!

Tallinn - St Petersburg: 360 km / 8 bus hours (€26 zlotys)
St Petersburg - Moscow: 700 km / 10 train hours (£100)

TOTAL TO DATE: 3,550 km

FUND RAISING TOTAL: £2,000 including Gift Aid - keep those donations coming!

2 Bridges Day 3 - 4: Warsaw - Vilnius - Riga - Tallinn

Day 3 - 4: Warsaw - Vilnius - Riga - Tallinn

After 3 hours of sleep and our third generous Polish meal in 12 hours we hit the road for our Day 3 9 hour train ride up into our first Baltic state. The time passed slowly and as counting trees didn't prove easy we entertained ourselves taking pictures of Lithuania's baton banishing station masters (see pics) enjoying their twice or so daily waving duties.

Andrzej's sandwiches proved their worth as the trip went on and on stopping at a seemingly never-ending number of village/farm stations. The lack of sleep may have been kicking in yet the pleasant enough Lithuanian capital, Vilnius, seemed underwhelming compared to its Baltic rivals and to its reported role as a regional powerhouse during its 16th century heyday.

Having disappointed the Vilnius hostel staff by not living up to the apparent British guy stereotype, Day 4 started early (again) stumbling to the bus station for the ride up to Riga. A lively and intriguing city we made our 5 lats go much further than we imagine they would had we been in town at 2am rather than 2 in the afternoon.

Tempting as it was time was not on our side so, upgraded to a Lux Bus, another 5 hours north took us to Tallinn, our favourite of the Baltic capitals with its largely pedestrianised centre steeped in history in the evening sun, before enticing us into our beerhouse #2 of the trip so far followed by the (obligatory we were told) couple of beers taking in some of the sights night Tallinn has to offer. No scandal I'm afraid, although buy me a beer and I might let you know how Will struts his stuff when the Hollywood stars beckon.

Little did Will know as he went to sleep the fun in store the next day, but for that you'll have to wait until our next blog!

Warsaw - Vilnius: 520 km / 9 train hours (106 zlotys)

Vilnius - Riga: 270 km / 4.5 bus hours (45 litas)

Riga - Tallinn: 270 km / 4.5 bus hours (12 lats)

TOTAL TO DATE: 2,590 km

18th May 2011

Message from Will & Rob

In Tallin, Estonia. Ready to hit Russia via Helsinki tomorrow!

2 Bridges: London - Berlin - Warsaw

Day 1 - 2: London - Berlin - Warsaw

So after not much preparation and a lot of talking midday saw us set off from London's Tower Bridge with a mere 24,000 (at our most conservative estimate) kilometres to cover in our 56 day trip to reach Sydney. Meeting on time, even if Will had a massive hangover, put us in good stead and with the obligatory photos taken we made for our glamorous first major departure point, Victoria Coach Station. Despite TfL not running the district line, and the replacement Routemaster being too full, our quick (for a Sunday) thinking got us to Victoria and on board our first Eurolines coach just in time.

A quick "Das ist verbotten" speech from the rather German coach crew later and we were on our way racing past the sights of south London and onto the Chunnel for a rather un ferry like crossing to the flat, flat and grey skied lands of northern France. Although we were enjoying the company of our fellow, and rather eccentic, passengers, detours into the centres of Lille, Brussels, Hannover and another German sounding place was enough for us and we were glad to reach the outskirts of Berlin after only 19 and a half hours on the road. A journey that could have been significantly shorter if we'd gone for a coach with more drivers than tachometers.

3 hours in Berlin was enough for a reinvigorating breakfast (and beer - a German custom apparently) courtesy of Rory, then a whistle stop tour of the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate and Jewish Memorial before ambling over to the rather impressive Hautbahnhof to take a mere 5 hour train ride east to Warsaw passing through the rolling plains of eastern Germany and Poland reaching the Polish capital. Thanks to Andrzej for an awesome evening of steak, beer, beer, then a night time tour of the surprisingly attractive Warsaw Old Town including the apparently olibligatory litre Tyski before a road racing trip to a well earned bed for five hours kip and a 6am start tomorrow!

London - Berlin: 1,000 km / 19 hour bus (£42)

Berlin - Warsaw: 530 km / 6 hour train (€48)

TOTAL TO DATE: 1,530 km

24,000 Kilometres

I've just redone the map, and according to Google, our shortest distance to reach Sydney will be 24,000 kilometres (or 15,000 miles). This is the equivalent of 430km every single day.... more than the distance from London to Newcastle Upon Tyne.

I thought you said it wasn't far Will?

24 Hours to go

24 hours to go, bag packed, travel insurance purchased and seat61 website printed out in full, fund raising making progress and the reality kicks in we're really doing this!

St Petersburg 20th May, Moscow 21st, Beijing 30th, Singapore 14th of June - then the challenge really begins!

DEPARTURE

WE ARE LEAVING LONDON TOWER BRIDGE AT 1200 NOON SUNDAY 15TH MAY

-To make our way to London Victoria Station for the first leg of the journey. (London-Berlin)

-WELL WISHERS AND ASSOCIATED PRESS WELCOME

Uncle Bulgaria

Still no news as to whether Uncle Bulgaria will be able to make the trip.... currently looking for replacements. Suggestions for a mascot welcome!

7 DAYS TO GO !

WE HAVE SOME OFFICIAL DATES

LEAVING MIDDAY SUNDAY 15 TH MAY FROM TOWER BRIDGE

may 16 th berlin/ warsaw
17 th vilnius
18 th riga
19 th tallinn
  20 th st petersburg
21 st trans mongolian
30th beijing
14 th june ?  Singapore
1st july ?  Australia
11 th Sydney harbour bridge

.. Excited

7 DAYS!

ONLY 7 DAYS TO GO BEFORE THE BIG OFF

LEAVING ON SUNDAY 15TH MAY

We are just coming to terms with the organisation, bit further than we thought, but on the plus side- coach tickets to berlin are only £40.

Ben nevis, scarfell pike and snowdon.
3peaks done